Sculpins Attack! Fly-tying 101: #7 Robinton's Sculpin

So we've taken a short hiatus fro the blog here at Creekside this past week due to people running all over the place preparing for things like Christmas, Festivus, Hanukkah, Kwanzaa (does anyone actually celebrate Kwanzaa? I don't even know), birthdays (two of us here at Creekside have December birthdays) and flying across the country to visit friends, loved ones and relatives. I will take this time to apologize  for our lack of posting on the blog but we've been....fishing and busy...ok you got me...it's just fishing. Fine, fine. It's plain laziness. Happy now?! Sheesh.

Now that we've gotten that out of the way, today we are happy to present another fly-tying 101 course with our first full length fly-tying video produced via an iPhone and featuring our very own Shop Pro Charlie Robinton. This week we will feature a custom fly created by Charlie using a new product by Fish Skulls called Sculpin Helmets. The video is a bit long but we are slowly working out the details on how to create a video so bear with us as we progress. So without further adieu. Fly-Tying victim #7 Robinton's Sculpin.

Supply List

Hook: B10S #2, Fish Skull Articulated Shank

Thread: UTC 140, Black or Olive

Body: Olive Barred Variant Crosscut Rabbit

Wings: Barred Olive Grizzly Marabou Tips

Legs: Barred Rubber Legs

Collar: Olive Deer Hair

Throat: Red Angel Hair

Head: Sculpin Helmet

Step 1: Tie your thread on the B10S hook wrap. Zap-a-gap and wrap the cross cut from the bed towards the head, leaving enough room to tie the fur off near the eye.

Step 2: Strip off the Marabou at the base of the post off two feathers. Tie in the feathers on each side of the trailing hook. The we are going to tie in some rubber legs in a fashion that allows them triangulate back behind the hook. Cut them so they are not longer then the trailing hook. Whip Finish.

Step 3: Now we are going to slide the trailing hook on the Fish Skull Articulated Shank. Place the shank into the vice and tie on your thread, wrapping it tightly over the area where you slide the trailing hook on.

Step 4: Zap-a-gap and begin wrapping some more crosscut forward about 3/4 of the way. Cut excess and tie down.

Step 5: Strip off the marabou at the base of two more feathers. Tie to each side again. Then tie more rubber legs in the same way you tied the ones on the trailing hook. Tie off. The rubber legs shouldn't be longer then the shank.

Step 6: Tie in angel hair on the underside of the fly. Cut it short of the shank, so that it gives the appearance of a colored throat area.

Step 8: Cut deer hair, clean out excess fibers, and stack in a hair stacker.  Tie to front of shank tightly. You may need to do several clumps or just one. This is up to you. Cut the deer hair down in a tapered manner. Wrap in front of the hair tapering down. Whip Finish.

Step 9: Zap-a-gap the front of the deer hair and the thread. Slide the Sculpin Helmet over the hair and hold it there for a few seconds allowing the glue to set. We like to take red thread and tie it in in front of the helmet to create a block in case the glue fails. (It most likely will not but better to be safe then sorry) Whip finish that....and viola!

Ok so. Here we go. If my instructions weren't clear enough or you need a visual reference. Here is our first featured fly-tying video with many more to come we hope.



If you have any questions feel free to contact us via email, phone or simply leave a comment here and we will respond as quickly as possible.

On another note I have been informed that our Class Page has been updated with a multitude of new beginner and advanced classes. So peruse that and if something strikes your fancy or there is something you would like to learn that isn't listed you can tell us and we can probably set it up for you.  Stay tuned for some more upcoming classes, videos and events at Creekside.

Feed Fish Flies, Not Toxins
-RB

Eat the worm! Fly-Tying 101: #5 The San Juan Worm

Winter time in the Northwest means a fluctuation of temperatures and weather. One day the rivers may be low and clear, the next they could be colored and carrying houses, cows, Auntie Ann and other instruments of civilization towards Davey Jones Locker.  For those of you diehards that don't react to a snow storm as the Snowpocalypse or a torrential downpour like you should start cutting down trees, collecting animals in pairs and building an ark, this fly will help you prepare for the times when the water is off-colored and high.

There are multiple ways to tie this fly and everyone has their personal variation that they believe will work for them. We will go over the basic pattern and then get into some of the more complex variations. Overall this fly may be the easiest fly to tie in the world, unless you are fishing the Juan and using size 24 bare red hooks....yes, it works, trust me. Anyways, as I was saying, this fly is easy to tie, can be used in multiple applications and is a good all-purpose fly to have in the box. So without further adieu, fly-tying victim #5 the San Juan Worm.

Supply List

Hook : Daichi 1120 #6-20

Thread: 6/0 Uni, Color should match Vernille

Body: Vernille, Any Color or Pearl Core, Any color

Rib: Flashabou or crystal flash

Bead: Optional, but any Cyclops bead will work.

Hackle: Optional, Partridge, Pheasant Rump, Guinea

 There are multiple variations of this fly. I will do the simple version first. Then walk you through some of the variations, which aren't too difficult but can be confusing.

Step 1:  Tie down thread to hook. Cut a piece of vernille, you usually want it long enough that it is twice as long as the hook shank. Wrap thread back along the hook shank to the bend. Tie in the vernille so that about half of the vernille is hanging off the back of the hook shank.  Tie over the vernille to attach it to the hook then make a couple of wraps behind the vernille so that the tail sticks up.

          Step 1a: Slide a bead on the hook and place it near the eye. Slide the vernille through the bead. Make a wrap behind the bead and in front.

         Step 1b: If you are using pearlcore instead of vernille. Slide through the bead or just tie it down in front of the bead and another section behind. Near the bend, tie in a piece of flashabou/crystal flash and wrap over the pearlcore all the way to the bead.

Step 2: Wrap the thread forward along the hook, making a few wraps up over the vernille to attach it to the shank. When you get to the eye. Wrap over the vernille and make a few wraps in front to make the vernille stand up. 

        Step 2a: You can tie in the hackle at this point if you choose to do so. Tie it in tip first behind where the vernille/pearlcore goes up, make a couple wraps and tie off. If using a bead and you wish to add some hackle, tie it in front of the bead tip first and make a couple wraps, tie off.

Step 3: Whip finish in front of the vernille. Cut thread, and then take a lighter and burn the ends of the vernille slightly. If you are using pearlcore you will have to superglue the ends instead of burning them.

Colors: Red, pink, green, olive, blue, purple, blue, burgundy, black, root beer, and chartreuse.  the most effective colors are pink and red, especially on the Yakima in early spring. Purple can be effective as well. Blue and chartreuse seem to work better in Colorado, Wyoming and Utah. You can mix and match colors as well, making the tail a different color then the front. Those versions generally work better when tied in with a bead to cover the transition.

Where it Fishes: Pretty much everywhere. They work better in cloudy/murky water, but I have caught fish on this fly all over the west. Alaska, Wyoming, Idaho, Washington, Oregon, California, Montana, Utah and New Mexico. Such infamous rivers as the Yakima, Rocky Ford, Rock Creek, Flat Creek, South Fork of the Snake, San Juan, Green River (in Utah), Klickitat, etc.  The bigger versions can work for steelhead as well as trout and you can tie them down to a size 20.

If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask. All tying lessons are located on our Tying Page.

Feed Fish Flies, Not Toxins

-RB